Lawn Care Tips

The information below is merely intended to assist you in learning more about your lawn. Consult your garden center or your subject matter expert for more information. Click on links below to expand information.

Lawn Care
Most Lawn Care items fall into one of the following categories. From Establishment to Mowing or Watering. We will follow the example of a new lawn being established and cared for over the course of a season and list the things that may need to be done. We can't cover every single item that there is possible so please consult your garden center to find additional information. Let's start with Establishing Turf grass. Establishment Turf grass can be established a variety of ways. The method you choose will be determined by the situation your lawn is in. Do you have a new construction? An existing lawn that is thin and rough? A fair lawn that is just a little thin? Depending on what condition your lawn is in will determine where to start. Let's say you have a lawn that is in fair condition but needs thickened up. An easy way to do this is to Aerate and over seed. An aerator is a machine that will poke a hole in the ground (thousands of them actually) and remove a core of soil and leave it laying on the surface. These are called core aerators. Some aerators will simply push a spike into the ground creating a hole, this type is not as good. To start with, mow your grass as low as you can safely, don't throw rocks and dig dirt with the mower, but get it down to about 1" high. This will stunt the grass and slow it's growth allowing the new grass that you will seed to get started with limited competition from the existing grass. After mowing take an aerator, rent one, buy one or borrow one, and go over the entire lawn at least twice. Depending on the model you use, the aerator will poke holes every 2 to 8 inches apart. I like to be able to look down at the lawn at any point and not see spots that don't have holes larger than 6". If you have a spot larger than 6" without holes in it, you won't have very much grass come up in that spot, so go over the lawn as many times as it takes to be sure you have holes everywhere. Once your done aerating, spread your seed. The amount of seed you use is important. If you don't use enough you won't get the desired results. Spread the seed with a spreader of any type, do not use your hand and just throw it around, you won't get even coverage. Spread the seed using half of the required amount spreading it in one direction, use the other half spreading the opposite direction creating a cross hatch pattern on the lawn. This way you are assured of getting even coverage. After spreading the seed take a drag of any type, a piece of chain link fence, a board with a rope tied to it, or what ever you can drag behind your mower. Drag the lawn, this will push and drag seed into the holes you created and break up the little plugs of soil that the aerator left on the ground, it will cover up most of the seed giving much better germination and a thicker lawn. After dragging, spread a starter fertilizer, this can be done first if you want, it really doesn't matter. A starter fertilizer has a higher middle number than first and last numbers. (More Phosphate) For complete explanation on what the numbers mean on fertilizer bags, how they affect grass and what micro-nutrients grass also needs, refer to our Lawn Care Manual. You will need to put down 8 pounds per thousand square feet of a 6-12-12 or 4 pounds per K of a 6-24-24. This will give the ground the nutrients needed to germinate and start a turf lawn, thus the name "starter fertilizer". After about a month the new grass will start to yellow off some or maybe turn pale green, this is showing you that it is time to fertilize again. Apply 6# per K of 15-15-15 this will provide the nitrogen for green and growth and phosphate and potash for root growth and overall vigor. After the grass is about 3 weeks old you should be able to start mowing. CUT IT HIGH!!! Refer to the section on mowing for more. Fertilizing will also need to be done on a regular schedule. Refer to Fertilizing for a complete schedule. If you have a new home and this is the first lawn a few things are different. Mainly you will have to do clean up and get the proper grade before working on seeding. Once this is done you will have to till up the ground to make a soft seed bed. After tilling fertilize, and seed just as described above using the same amount of seed. After this you will have to cover the entire lawn with straw. Shake out straw to cover approximately 50% of the soil from view. After done you should be able to look down and still see about half of the soil showing through the straw, no more. This equates to about 100 bales per acre. After your done strawing it's time to start watering. Soak the lawn until runoff the first watering, followed by daily watering's of sufficient length to keep the soil wet. If it dries out, the seed won't germinate. Fertilizing Fertilizing the grass does more than just make it green. Of course it will make it grow too, but lot's of things happen when you fertilize. Going back to our establishment, fertilizer makes the seed germinate faster, and get started out of the ground. After the grass has a good start fertilizer will make the grass get thicker send off Rhizomes, Stolons or Tillers all making the grass thicker and healthier. What most people want to know is how much and when. Simply put, most grasses will benefit from four applications of fertilizer per year. Spread out 60 days apart starting in early spring approximately 30 days before the growing season starts in your area, continuing through the growing season until fall. Spring fertilizing gets the grass off to a fast start giving you that rich green color everyone wants. A word of warning though, don't use too much fertilizer, follow the listed guidelines on the bag, or these generic instructions. Too much fertilizer will cause excess growth, lead to Fungus growth and weaken the grass. Weed Control Controlling weeds in a new or existing lawn is vital to the health and overall appearance of the lawn. A beautiful smooth lawn gets most of it's good looks from the fact that it is smooth and level with no weeds sticking up above the turf. You have probably mowed your lawn before only to have dandelions popping up above the grass a day later making it look like you need to mow already. A weed free lawn holds it's good looks for several days if the grass is a mono culture with uniform growing heights. Proper Mowing Mowing is the most misunderstood part of lawn care, and the most often incorrectly performed part of lawn care. Far too many people will set their mowers too low or "scalp" the lawn. This leads to thin and dying out grass, shallow root systems, and in the long run, NO GRASS. Watering Once you have achieved the perfect lawn, after hundreds or thousands of dollars on Renovating or installing a lawn, it just doesn't make sense to let it go back to being a pasture from lack of watering or other maintenance that needs to be done. Spend a little time and money and keep it watered and you will keep the lush grass you spent your hard earned money and time on. The Ideal way to water your lawn is with an Automatic Underground Sprinkler System. This way the watering is done every day that it needs it, you don't have to drag hoses, you don't waste water from over watering, you get all of the lawn watered, not just where you happen to set the sprinkler. How many times have you started the sprinkler then forgot to move it? This wastes water and over waters some parts of the lawn while other parts may never get water because it's too far to drag a hose to. Another common problem in hand watering is that you can only run one or two sprinklers at a time. If you have a very large lawn this could take all day to water. Automatic systems will water when you program the system to come on, once a day, every other day, once a week, your choice for what needs to be watered. Also, shrubbery and annuals need to be watered separate from the lawn. If you applied the same amount of water on your landscape as gets put on the lawn you would surely kill some plants from over watering. An automatic system waters landscape plants on their own zone at the times they need it, even multiple times per day for tender annuals like impatiens. Make sure you follow the rules for Flower Mounds watering restrictions.

Establishment
Some lawns are started from scratch, like a new home just completed with no lawn at all. Some are existing lawns that are in need of renovation. Some people have nice lawns right now but just want to keep it that way. Regardless of where you are follow these steps and get the lawn you want. Seeding Depending on the situation you are in your method of seeding will change. For new lawns with no grass just a lot of dirt or mud, the grade work must be done first. This is done by the contractor or by you if you are good with a tractor and box blade or a tiller and rake. Once the grading is complete and you are happy with the surface as far as smoothness, no holes or low spots, drainage taken care of, etc. then you are ready for the seeding process. The soil must be worked up to fluff it back up to make a good seed bed. Good seed to soil contact is important for good germination. After the soil is prepared you will apply the seed with a spreader, rotary type is best, apply half of the required seed in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction, this gives good coverage of the seed and uniform germination over the lawn. The required amount of seed will be determined by the type of grass you are planting, warm season or cool season grasses. Warm season grasses are planted about 30 days before the temperature turns warm in your area. April through May in the Southeast. Cool season grasses are planted in Fall (Best) or Spring 30 days before the optimum growing conditions exist. September or March in the Southeast. Warm Season grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia are to be planted after the temperatures reach optimum growing condition for Warm Season Grass. This is when it is 80 to 90 degrees. Warm Season grasses are very small seed, only 2-3# per thousand square feet are needed. Cool Season grass seeds are larger and require more pounds per K. 7-8# per thousand square feet are needed for good coverage and thick grass. Seed can be used in several machines that will power seed the lawn. One machine has several terms, "power seeder", "no till drill seeder" are the most common.This machine has a hopper you pour the selected seed into, the machine will cut grooves in the lawn and drop seed into them in one pass. They do a very good job on lawns that are fairly level. If the lawn has pot holes and roots everywhere the cutters won't make contact with the ground leaving spots not seeded. These machines can be rented for anywhere from $50.00 to $125.00 per day depending on your area, the type of machine and how long you need it for. Another way of seeding is to Hydro seed. This is usually a process hired out since it requires special equipment not usually rented. Hydro seeding is a method used to renovate lawns or establish from scratch. On a lawn that needs thickened up, the mixture of Seed, Fertilizer, and a mulch material made from recycled wood or paper products is sprayed on the lawn. The mixture is dyed blue or green to help the operator see where he has sprayed it, this will turn white in a few days. The benefits of Hydro seeding are quicker germination and usually thicker germination since the seed is soaking in water as it's being done. It is one of the more expensive forms of seeding. A less expensive way to renovate a lawn is to use a Dethatcher followed by broadcasting seed. The Dethatcher will remove thatch and other material from the surface of the lawn while scratching the surface up enough to provide good seed to soil contact that is essential in germination. One of the drawbacks is that the machine will sometimes bring so much material up that you have to rake it up and haul it away, it can be a lot depending on your lawn. Sodding Sodding is the quickest way to instant grass. We sod mostly on new constructions but quite a bit on renovated landscapes. There is nothing quite like having dirt one day and lush green grass the next. Of course it is 3 to 4 times as expensive as seeding depending on the contractor's prices in your area. Proper preparation of the lawn is important again to get the sod started off right, fertilizing before or after the sod is laid is needed as well as proper watering after the sod is down. Sod is usually laid in checker board style so you don't have a long row of seams lining up. If this happens you have the possibility of erosion developing in the seams. Another procedure not always done, but sometimes helpful is to roll the sod with a heavy roller after it is laid. This will mash out some of the uneven spots and give better contact with the soil. If you do a careful job of laying you won't have the problems that some have after the sod is laid, and you shouldn't have to roll it. A new form of sod has been popular lately. Big Roll sod, these are rolls up to 42" wide and 120 feet long. It takes a tractor or forklift to install these. Mostly commercial installers will use these large rolls. Also there are less seams to worry with and it grows in quicker. Whatever method you use, you will love a newly sodded lawn. Instant Grass !! Sprigging Sprigging is done by either a machine that cuts grooves into the soil then mashes sprigs of grass into them, or you can till up the ground and spread sprigs across the surface followed by rolling to mash the sprigs into the soil. Most home owners will have to till up the ground and spread the sprigs since the equipment isn't usually rented. Only warm season grasses can be sprigged. Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede, Bahiagrass. These grasses have stolons, rhizomes or both. These pieces of live grass plants will take off growing after being transplanted or sprigged. Since cool season grasses like Fescue and Ryegrass don't have these rhizomes or stolons they are not candidates for this method. To Sprig a lawn with Bermuda or Zoysia, Till up the lawn, level it, apply starter fertilizer just like when you would be starting seed, at the same rate. Go get your sprigs from a local sod farm and spread them over the lawn by whatever method you have. You can use a pitch fork from the back of a pickup, or dump the sprigs in the drive and use a front end loader if you have one to shake the sprigs over the lawn. After spreading them, take a roller and roll the lawn pressing the sprigs into the loose soil. At this point you are done and ready to start watering. The sprigs will dry out and look like dead, dry straw for a couple of weeks. Don't get alarmed! Just keep watering to keep the soil wet and the sprigs will start to show signs of life. They start slowly but take off growing quickly in a couple weeks. Keep the water coming.

Fertilizing
Without Fertilizer most turf grasses will struggle to maintain vigor and color. Fertilizing increases growth, color, vigor, hardiness, thickens the grass and is the mainstay of having a rich dark lawn. While Fertilizing alone will not provide a perfect lawn, it is one of the 5 most important parts of lawn care. Fertilizer has three main elements. Nitrogen, (the first number) Phosphate, (the middle number) and Potash (the last number). Each element has a particular purpose as to what it does to a grass plant. Let's be simple here and just say that your lawn needs all of the above, but in different amounts. Nitrogen is the most used of the elements. It produces fast growth, dark color and helps thicken the grass. But a Fertilizer that is high in Nitrogen and low in Phosphate and Potash will create too much top growth and not enough root growth or energy storage for recovery and over wintering. A balanced fertilizing program for your lawn will include all three main elements with some of the micro-nutrients also needed by grass. Micro-nutrients are minerals like Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Boron, Sulfur and others. These are not used as much as the three main elements but are needed some. Some of the micro nutrients are readily available in the soil you have, others have to be added. To be certain what is needed a soil test is the place to start. After receiving the results of your soil test apply the recommended amounts of fertilizer in the quantity suggested. It is important that you do not over apply. This only stimulates top growth and has potential to harm the grass and cause runoff problems in surrounding lakes and streams. Without a soil test the basic idea of Fertilizing is to apply one pound of each nutrient per K ft. of lawn area. Going back to the numbers on a bag of Fertilizer, say 15-15-15, this means that each bag contains 15% of each Nutrient, so 100#s of this fertilizer would have 15# of Nitrogen, Phosphate and Potash. So if you were putting down one pound of Nutrient per K ft. 100# would cover 15 thousand square feet of lawn area with the correct amount of Fertilizer. Again, measure the lawn area of your property to know exactly how much grass you have. Don't assume that because you bought a one acre lot and built a house on it that you have one acre of grass. You will subtract the space for the house, the driveway, any landscape beds, any unimproved areas of the property that are not lawn areas, and by the time your done subtracting area you will arrive at a smaller area than you thought. Applying too much Fertilizer is dangerous, and costs you needlessly. Warm season grasses will require more fertilizer than the cool season grasses. Bermuda will need 1 pound of Nitrogen per month of growing season to spread rapidly and keep a deep dark color. This will mean two or three more applications than Fescue depending on where you live and how long your growing season is. Also the level of maintenance you want to give your lawn will determine your Fertilizing schedule. Some people will only Fertilize in the Fall, some Fall and Spring, and others follow a strict 4 or 6 application schedule for each year. The time to start Fertilizing is 30 days prior to the start of the growing season where you live. In our area that is Middle of Feb. to Mar. farther North might wait a month. A four application program will be spread out approximately 60 days apart through the growing season Key Benefits Provides Dark green rich turf color Keeps grass healthy Keeps grass thick helping to keep weeds out

Weed Control
Weeds germinate and grow during all seasons of the year. Because of this many people fail in trying to control the weeds themselves since they will use a weed control product in the Spring only and then wonder why they have weeds in the Summer. Weed control products need to be used regularly just like the regular fertilizing schedule. Most people will use a "weed and feed" product that contains weed control products and fertilizer together. This is the easiest way to do both tasks. There are two types of weed control products. Pre-emergent and Post emergent. Pre-emergent products control weeds before they germinate and come up. Post emergent products kill existing weeds. This is another reason the average home owner will get discouraged after attempting weed control, often the wrong type of weed killer is used on the wrong weed. Good weed control is achieved only when you use the right product for the right weed at the right time. A typical weed control program will be something like this: First application of the year in early Spring. Feb to Apr depending on where you live. This will be a pre-emergent product with fertilizer. The idea is to apply the pre-emergent herbicide approximately 30 days before the time that the weeds you are trying to control would come up. So by applying in Feb. you will keep any weeds from coming up that would normally be coming up in Mar. through May, depending on the product used. Most weed control products will last around 60 days depending on how much rain falls on the product after it is applied. Excess rainfall will weaken the weed control and make it not last as long. Proper application is important since the product won't work unless you follow directions and apply it the way it should be done. Always follow label instructions and never go by the old adage that if one ounce is good then 2 ounces will be really good. Applying twice the recommended amount of a weed control product than what is called for can kill all existing grass and weeds in your lawn and possibly prevent new grass seed from germinating for some time. After about 60 days, apply another round of Weed and Feed. This time you will use Fertilizer with Post Emergent Herbicide, this will kill weeds that have already come up and are showing above the soil. If your lawn is in fairly good shape weed wise, you shouldn't have many weeds left after the 2nd application. If you do, apply another round 60 days later and then a final round in the fall. Spreading the applications out around 60 day intervals you should cover the season with 4 applications. Some people will put down 5 or even 6 applications but it depends on the product you are using. Always follow the label instructions for amount and frequency. Regardless of the brand or type of weed control you use it will take more than one application in the year to get control of weeds and keep them under control. Be patient. Key Benefits Less weeds means the grass will look smoother or more even After you mow, with no weeds the grass will keep it's good looks Your Turf grass will be thicker with no competition from weeds

Mowing
Mowing is they mst often incorrectly performed part of lawn maintenance. Each grass type has a height range that it prefers to be mowed at, if you will cut the grass at that height the grass will be healthier, look better and most importantly last through the season without dying out from lack of water. The depth of the root system is in direct correlation to the height you mow at. So, the higher you mow the deeper the roots, the more water the grass can get and the less you have to water. In general, two types of grasses are what we deal with. Cool Season grasses: Fescue, Bluegrass, Ryegrass. These are the most common in the Southeast. These grasses like to be mowed at a range of 2.5 to 3.5 inches high. I like to mow Fescue at least 3" high, it just looks better. Bluegrass is the most tolerant to lower mowing, but still I wouldn't take it lower than 2.5". The other type of grass is Warm Season grasses: Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede. These grasses will tolerate as low a cutting as most home owners mowers will cut. Golf courses use a lot of Bermuda, and Zoysia and they routinely cut it as low as .5" A typical home lawn will look nice at 1" providing you have a smooth grade . Do you Stripe your lawn? Have you ever noticed the football and baseball fields that have patterns on them? This is done with a mowing technique called Striping. Anyone can do it, it just takes a little time and care in mowing to get straight lines. Key Benefits Keeps the grass alive since the roots will be deeper Grass cut at the proper height will look better Saves water and money from needing less water and time

Watering
Watering your grass is an important step of the lawn care process. Especially after seeding. Start watering now and when you think you have watered too much, water some more and your probably just getting there. No Water.... you get NO GRASS. Two main types of watering are Establishment and Maintenance. The establishment watering is done by watering every day if not 3 times per day every day for short periods of time. First, water as often as possible, if you have an automatic system set it to water 3 times per day morning, early afternoon and 6 or 7 at night. Most automatic systems will be set to run from 5 to 15 minutes per zone depending on what kind of heads are running on that zone. If watering by hand, water until the point of runoff then move the sprinkler. Use this method until the new grass is out of the ground and about 3 inches tall. At this time you are going to want to start cutting the grass. Turn the water off for a couple of days to let the ground dry out before mowing, then use a new or freshly sharpened blade with your mower set at 3" or higher. After mowing start watering again except back off by half, water every other day once a day for a longer period of time to start soaking deep. Slowly change your watering schedule to watering once or twice a week and watering for long periods on each zone to soak the ground to 6" deep. This will encourage deep root growth. Also, do not water at night except during establishment. The first watering session to knock off is the night watering. Watering at night will encourage fungus' to start on the grass and this is a very bad thing. Fungus will spread across the lawn in a week or less and kill the new grass as it goes. Fungus will look like straw colored spots in the lawn in a circular pattern. It looks like the grass is dyeing for lack of water. But more water just increases the fungus. Once a fungus gets started a Fungicide application is needed to kill it out. Fungicides are usually label Danger, the strongest signal word on Pesticides. So you are best to call a local lawn spray company to come handle it for you. Besides, the chemical is very expensive and sometimes only sold in gallon or larger containers that you would never use up.

 

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Aerial Maps of Stone Hill Farms

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